Oaxaca Government Pursues Legal Action Against Adidas Over Indigenous Sandal Design
August 6, 2025
The government of Oaxaca, Mexico, led by Governor Salomón Jara Cruz, has announced plans to file a lawsuit against Adidas and designer Willy Chavarría for alleged cultural appropriation in their “Oaxaca Slip On” sandal. The design, inspired by traditional huaraches from the indigenous community of Villa Hidalgo Yalalág in Oaxaca’s Sierra Norte, has sparked outrage for its lack of attribution or compensation to local artisans. This case, set to be filed with the Mexican Institute of Industrial Property (IMPI), underscores a growing movement to protect indigenous cultural heritage from exploitation by global brands.
Details of the Alleged Appropriation
The “Oaxaca Slip On,” showcased by Adidas in collaboration with Willy Chavarría at the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico, integrates elements of the traditional huarache, a sandal with pre-Columbian origins rooted in Mexico’s indigenous communities, particularly in regions like Jalisco, Michoacán, and Oaxaca. The huarache, derived from the Purépecha word kwarachi, features hand-woven braided leather straps and, in modern iterations, recycled tire soles, reflecting centuries-old craftsmanship. The Adidas design combines these traditional elements with an urban aesthetic, but critics argue it fails to acknowledge or benefit the Villa Hidalgo Yalalág community, whose artisans have preserved this craft for generations.
Governor Jara Cruz stated, “We will support the artisans of Villa Hidalgo Yalalág to defend against this new theft of cultural identity.” The lawsuit, as reported by El Financiero and Milenio on August 6, 2025, will accuse Adidas of violating the collective intellectual property rights of the Yalalág community. Local users and experts on social media, including posts on X, have criticized the brand for profiting from a cultural symbol without contributing to the community’s welfare, echoing sentiments like those expressed by @MirtyVas: “This shows the historical pattern of disdain and mistreatment of indigenous cultures, valuing only their commercializable aspects.”
Oaxaca’s History of Fighting Cultural Appropriation
This is not the first time Oaxaca’s indigenous communities have confronted global brands. The state, home to 16 distinct ethnic groups and over 1.19 million indigenous language speakers, has a rich cultural heritage that has frequently been exploited:
- 2015 Isabel Marant Case: The Mixe community of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec accused French designer Isabel Marant of plagiarizing their 600-year-old traditional blouse design for her Etoile collection. The community sought reparations and recognition, leading Marant to acknowledge the Mixe inspiration in court, though no financial compensation was reported. Oaxaca’s congress granted the design protected status in 2016, though it lacks legal enforceability.
- 2021 Zara, Anthropologie, and Patowl: Mexico’s Ministry of Culture accused these brands of appropriating Mixteca, Mixe, and Zapotec patterns without permission or community benefits. The ministry demanded public explanations and reparations, highlighting the issue’s prevalence.
- 2021 Levi’s Case: Artisans from Oaxaca’s Mazateca region accused Levi’s of copying hand-embroidered designs for its “Draco” collection. The controversy led to the closure of a Levi’s store in Oaxaca’s historic center, with artisans demanding federal intervention. Oaxaca’s congress amended its constitution in August 2021 to punish cultural plagiarism with up to 15 years in prison.
These cases reflect a broader pattern, with brands like Carolina Herrera, Ralph Lauren, and Zimmermann also facing accusations of appropriating Oaxacan textiles and designs.
Legal and Cultural Context
Oaxaca’s push against Adidas aligns with Mexico’s efforts to protect indigenous intellectual property. In 2022, the Federal Law for the Protection of the Cultural Heritage of Indigenous and Afro-Mexican Peoples and Communities was enacted to safeguard collective designs, but experts like Andrea Bonifaz of the NGO Impacto have criticized its vague implementation mechanisms. The Oaxaca lawsuit will be filed with IMPI, which oversees trademark and intellectual property disputes, but Mexico’s legal framework remains limited in enforcing collective cultural rights internationally.
Huaraches hold deep significance, particularly for Chicano communities, who reclaimed them during the 1960s Chicano Movement as symbols of resistance and Mexican heritage. The “Oaxaca Slip On” controversy mirrors global cases, such as Paul Smith’s 2015 appropriation of Pakistan’s Peshawari chappal, renamed “Robert” and sold for £300, prompting a petition for recognition. Similarly, a 2025 X post by @pattaazhy criticized Prada for copying an Indian sandal protected by a Geographical Indication tag, highlighting global parallels.
Community and Government Demands
The Yalalág community and Oaxaca government are seeking:
- Recognition: Formal acknowledgment of the huarache’s origins and the community’s role in its creation.
- Compensation: Financial benefits for artisans, who often earn minimal income (e.g., 300 pesos per handmade piece versus Adidas’ premium pricing).
- Legal Protections: Stronger enforcement of cultural heritage laws to prevent future exploitation.
Governor Jara Cruz emphasized collaboration with Yalalág artisans to ensure the lawsuit addresses their needs, stating, “We will approach our Yalalág brothers to file the complaint for theft of identity.” The case also aims to set a precedent, as prior lawsuits against brands like Levi’s and Marant resulted in limited tangible outcomes for artisans.
Adidas’s Track Record
Adidas, the world’s second-largest sportswear manufacturer with €23 billion in 2024 revenue, has faced intellectual property disputes before, notably suing Fitness World Trading in 2003 over a two-stripe motif resembling its trademarked three stripes. The company’s history with sandals, starting with the 1963 Adilette slide, shows its experience adapting traditional designs for global markets, but the “Oaxaca Slip On” marks its first major cultural appropriation controversy in Mexico. Adidas has not publicly responded to the Oaxaca allegations, and attempts to contact the company for comment were unanswered, per El Financiero.
Broader Implications
The lawsuit highlights the tension between global fashion’s commercial interests and indigenous communities’ cultural rights. Oaxaca, with 78% of its land collectively owned by indigenous groups, faces ongoing challenges from external exploitation, from mining concessions to cultural appropriation. The state’s vibrant heritage, celebrated in events like La Guelaguetza, is a source of pride but also vulnerability, as artisans struggle against mass-produced copies by brands with superior legal resources.
The case also reflects global debates over cultural ownership, as seen in the Navajo Nation’s 2016 victory against Urban Outfitters for misusing its trademarked name. Mexico’s efforts to protect its heritage face hurdles, as Western companies like Adidas hold stronger trademark enforcement mechanisms, while indigenous designs often lack binding protections.
Conclusion
The Oaxaca government’s planned lawsuit against Adidas and Willy Chavarría for the “Oaxaca Slip On” sandal underscores a critical fight to preserve indigenous cultural heritage. By challenging the unauthorized use of Villa Hidalgo Yalalág’s huarache design, Oaxaca aims to secure recognition and justice for its artisans. This case, rooted in a history of similar disputes, highlights the need for robust legal frameworks to protect collective intellectual property. As the lawsuit progresses, it could set a precedent for how global brands engage with indigenous cultures, ensuring respect and fair compensation for centuries-old traditions.
Sources: El Financiero, Milenio, The Guardian, The Yucatan Times, Quartz, The Verge, Wikipedia, Posts on X